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ClintClint

Beach Fanatic
Jul 2, 2008
599
78
I offer AIA Continuing Education Credits with a program I offer for builders and architects about this information. I spent 10 years developing hurricane resistant windows and doors for the Marvin brand prior to coming to the Panhandle.

My understanding is that it takes a hole somewhere in the neighborhood of 10% of the surface envelope of a building before the home can pressurize to the point that it could lift the roof off.

I don't worry about glass nearly as much as I worry about failure of locking systems, hinges and structural components built into hurricane resistant windows and doors. Wood splits from the initial impact and then fatigues over time and pressure cycles. Screws begin to pull out of wood. The twisting of stiles and rails under pressure allows locking systems to seperate because of the twisting action. Lots of things go wrong under extreme pressure. I can honestly say I have probably seen it all in this area.

I've seen the results of extreme stretching pressures----but that's why bedroom lights should be turned out!
 

ASH

Beach Fanatic
Feb 4, 2008
2,153
443
Roosevelt, MN
Why thank you sir. You're not just saying that because you still have the taste of Jambone's on your breath are you?

It was nice meeting you.

Any other high end builders out there need a lunch and learn session about impact windows and doors? Contact me and let's talk.
 

TooFarTampa

SoWal Insider
I offer AIA Continuing Education Credits with a program I offer for builders and architects about this information. I spent 10 years developing hurricane resistant windows and doors for the Marvin brand prior to coming to the Panhandle.

My understanding is that it takes a hole somewhere in the neighborhood of 10% of the surface envelope of a building before the home can pressurize to the point that it could lift the roof off.

I don't worry about glass nearly as much as I worry about failure of locking systems, hinges and structural components built into hurricane resistant windows and doors. Wood splits from the initial impact and then fatigues over time and pressure cycles. Screws begin to pull out of wood. The twisting of stiles and rails under pressure allows locking systems to seperate because of the twisting action. Lots of things go wrong under extreme pressure. I can honestly say I have probably seen it all in this area.

Hip roof or gable? I understand there is a big difference.

Thanks to those who mentioned the Lexan panels. This finally sounds like a practical solution for our home with no garage -- they seem lightweight, easily stored in the attic and, if installed beforehand, take little time to put up before a storm.

What about French doors? We have six pairs. I would be concerned about not just the glass but the hinges. :eek:
 

ASH

Beach Fanatic
Feb 4, 2008
2,153
443
Roosevelt, MN
How the roof is attached to the walls or how the sheathing is attached to the rafters is the bigger story than the roof style. Any roof will lift if not properly screwed down.

Hinges have never been a weak link in a door from my experience unless very short screws have been used. You would literally need to shear the hinge to make it fail due to how it sits when the door is in a closed position. Hinges transfer the load to the frame and therefore to the structure much better than the locking system on the opposite side of the panel because locking systems are smaller in size and usually less locking points than the door will have hinges.
The usual failure mode for a 2-panel door is that the top and bottom locking rods either bend to the point that they bypass the frame or the steel rods rip right through the frame at the top or bottom and let the door fly open.
Been there, seen that.....makes a lot of noise. :shock:
 

TooFarTampa

SoWal Insider
How the roof is attached to the walls or how the sheathing is attached to the rafters is the bigger story than the roof style. Any roof will lift if not properly screwed down.

Hinges have never been a weak link in a door from my experience unless very short screws have been used. You would literally need to shear the hinge to make it fail due to how it sits when the door is in a closed position. Hinges transfer the load to the frame and therefore to the structure much better than the locking system on the opposite side of the panel because locking systems are smaller in size and usually less locking points than the door will have hinges.
The usual failure mode for a 2-panel door is that the top and bottom locking rods either bend to the point that they bypass the frame or the steel rods rip right through the frame at the top or bottom and let the door fly open.
Been there, seen that.....makes a lot of noise. :shock
:


Oh, so THAT's what happened to our house during Ivan. :eek::eek::eek::eek:

What is the best way to protect them?
 

ASH

Beach Fanatic
Feb 4, 2008
2,153
443
Roosevelt, MN
The truth.....upgrade. Or shutter them. Door manufacturers use hardened steel locking rods. Standard locking rods will bend. I've seen the hardened ones bend. They are also typically longer to hold onto more frame. I can show you what the end of my doors look like. There is a reinforced stainless steel sleeve inside the top and bottom of the panel and sometimes there is even a steel plate in the frame so that you don't rely just on wood to not rip out under load.
If you have existing, non-impact doors, the fabric shield product is made to retro-fit your situation as it is really meant to cover larger openings where a sheet of plywood or a shutter system are less realistic to assemble.
 
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ASH

Beach Fanatic
Feb 4, 2008
2,153
443
Roosevelt, MN
And no......I do not sell the fabric shield product. It is a great idea in the right application.
 

TooFarTampa

SoWal Insider
The truth.....upgrade. Or shutter them. Door manufacturers use hardened steel locking rods. Standard locking rods will bend. I've seen the hardened ones bend. They are also typically longer to hold onto more frame. I can show you what the end of my doors look like. There is a reinforced stainless steel sleeve inside the top and bottom of the panel and sometimes there is even a steel plate in the frame so that you don't rely just on wood to not rip out under load.
If you have existing, non-impact doors, the fabric shield product is made to retro-fit your situation as it is really meant to cover larger openings where a sheet of plywood or a shutter system are less realistic to assemble.

Where is the "Thanks, I think" button? :rotfl: :eek:
 
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